Interview with Thornandes James R.
Thornandes James R.
22, Male
Freelancer:
Fashion Stylist, Image Maker, Writer, Consultants
What is your perception of the current Indonesian fashion Industry?
My perception for nowadays Indonesian fashion industry is the time of exploring. The ideas, designs, creativity of designers and editors are being challenged to think out of the box and at the same time it has to balance with the commercialism side of it. So people are trying to make something unique, different, and pop out but at the same time still wearable and reachable (due to the crisis). Sideways, we're having fun exploring our heritage to bring our identity to the global eyes and present it in a modern and fresh way.
What is the current trend in fashion?
Basically for global trends, people are back to the 90's era not very much different here in Indonesia. Organza Sheer and loose silhouette are out and about in some of Indonesian designer collections like Barli Asmara, Stella Rissa, and SPOUS by Priyo Oktaviano. But now, besides bringing our Batik into the global fashion scene, Indonesian designers are exploring our traditional fabrics called tenun (weaving) such as from Bali, Sulawesi, Nusa Tenggara/West Timor, and Kalimantan/Borneo. Plus, the current trends in fashion are the structured architectural shape (Sebastian Gunawan with Beyond The Line, his last year collection that playing with origami ornaments and textures, Adrian Gan with his collection that inspired by Rumah Gadang/Minang House) the contra of it, drapery (Biyan, SPOUS by Priyo Oktaviano, Ghea Panggabean, Ari Seputra, Deden Siswanto play with this elegant technique with their own fuse last year).
Where do you see Indonesian fashion in the future?
Hopefully, if the politics and economics are getting better, I believe Indonesia will be a potential spot as one of the fashion capital city of Asia. We got great culture, great talents, and great level of consumerism.
How deep are the reaches of foreign influences in your design?
It's different if we see each Indonesian designer works, but I think it's quite deep. However we still look up to the international fashion-house brand like Lanvin, Dior, Balenciaga, McQueen, Louis Vuitton, etc. Like it or not we will be influenced by it. Not much different with styling, our references our references are from fashion campaigns and some editorials from international fashion magazine.
What would you like to see improved or different?
I’d like to see the way Indonesian people see and judge about fashion generally. Mostly Indonesian market love details and rich looks with lots of embellishment and embroidery, the more the merrier if I could say so. Indonesian people need to learn what is enough is enough. In the design perspective, I hope designers can improve and bring their concepts and creativity together, and wishfully they become more creative in developing the ready-to-wear area (most of Indonesian designer’s collections are categorized as couture and night gown collection).
In what way is the industry influenced by Indonesian culture or religion?
The culture is influencing the industry a lot, like I said before, Indonesian people love details and rich ornaments cause it’s already become part of our culture, if you see our traditional clothes and accessories, they’re incredibly rich and all of the things were worn together. That’s also why Indonesian designers are so closed and good with details like patterns, beads, embroideries, and embellishments. While religion mostly influencing the cutting line that's not too sexy and revealing.
